Archive for the ‘General’ Category
Above all, be sure you’re represented by an attorney. A home is probably the most important and certainly the most expensive purchase most of us will ever make. There are many opportunities to make mistakes, and some of those mistakes can be costly. It’s silly not to spend the relatively small amount of additional money needed to hire a lawyer when that’s the only way to minimize the chances of something going wrong on your end of the deal.
It’s true that you may be working with a knowledgeable broker. But as I’ve pointed out already, the broker in most cases represents the seller. It’s also true that you’ll be required to pay the fee for the lender’s attorney, if there is one. But that attorney will represent the lender’s interests, and the lender’s interests won’t always be the same as yours. Unless you’re represented by an attorney of your own, there won’t be anyone else involved in this process whose sole responsibility is ensuring that your interests are protected.
Why do you need an attorney if everything is going smoothly? Because a good real-estate attorney should be able to anticipate problems and keep them from developing. It always costs less to avoid trouble than to get out of it.
When should you bring an attorney in? The best time is at the beginning of your negotiations with the seller, before you’ve signed anything that commits you in any way to the transaction.
Most often these center on the return of, or the failure to return, the buyer’s deposit when the purchase does not go through. Not far behind on the list of buyer complaints are allegations that the broker misrepresented the property in some fashion, either by lying outright about its condition or by withholding vital information. As I noted earlier, there are ways of pursuing complaints against brokers who are less than honest. The best strategy, though, is to protect yourself from the outset. That means understanding that the broker does not represent you, and behaving accordingly. The broker is required to provide honest information about the property, but you should also make an effort to obtain information on your own, Don’t wait for the broker or seller to tell you about problems; ask specifically whether they exist. Have a professional home inspection done (more about that later, in chapter 11). Make your own assessment of market conditions and comparative values — don’t rely on the broker’s judgment alone.
After you’ve established the type of 4×4 you need, it’s time to figure out how the vehicle should be equipped. Here’s where you really go to work, for nearly every 4×4 on the market offers a mind-boggling array of standard and optional equipment. A partial list includes engine, transmission, four-wheel-drive system, seats, tires, instrtunent panel, air-conditioning, power doors, windows, and mirrors, fog lamps, and specialty packages (trailer towing, handling, offroad, heavy-duty suspension, and auxiliary cooling).
This equipment may be available by special-option groups or by trim levels. Some of it can be ordered separately. It all depends on the manufacturer.
As you mull all this over, be aware of some important industry trends.
Most new trucks are considerably plusher than before, and kite- nor controls and appointments as well as such basics as ride and handling are much more carlike. Utilitarian versions, however, remain in many lines. just don’t expect a dealer to rush you into buying one. (He makes more on upscale versions.) A turkey hunter I know welcomed the improved mechanical components but balked at the fancy interiors. He needed an interior that he could hose out after every outing, so he bought a pickup with vinyl bench seats and floor mats, though he had to fight the dealer every step of the way.
Like many hunters and fishermen, you probably think V8s when truck engines come to mind. Nothing wrong with that, especially if you need to haul huge loads. But there are a number of good six- cylinder in-line and V6 engines out there, some of which rival the power of a VS and offer better fuel economy. You should also think torque rather than horsepower. An engine’s torque rating is a truer indication of its ability to work for you. Ideally, you’d like an engine to develop peak torque at a relatively low engine speed—say around 2,800 to 3,500 revolutions per minute (rpm). (This is especially important if you launch boats off steep ramps or drive on tough offroad trails.)
The federal government is tightening emissions standards as well as raising fuel economy standards for light trucks. As a result, we’re beginning to see a profound change in the type of engines found in trucks. The industry standard has been the tried-and-true pushrod design, but Ford and Jeep recently introduced overhead-camshaft engines into some of their products. The difference? The pushrod engine develops high torque at very low rpm, which is perfect for many truck applications. Overhead-camshaft engines typically develop top-end torque at higher rpm, but this engine pollutes less and is more fuel efficient.
The engine’s torque is harnessed by the transmission. In the past, many hardcore four-wheelers opted for manual transmissions because of the extra gearing they provided. (Most manuals offer five forward speeds with overdrive for improved fuel economy.) These guys were dissatisfied with automatics that offered only three or four forward speeds; the three speeds had limited gearing, and many four- speeds were plagued by “gear-hunting” computer controls that favored fuel economy over performance.
Most of these problems have been rectified through the introduction of four-speed electronic automatic overdrive transmissions. Still, you’ll find that the transmission on a new truck has been designed for ride quality rather than performance. Although new transmissions don’t “gear-hunt” as badly as they did a few years ago, you may be less than enthralled with their performance in high-country and towing situations.
A generation ago, four-wheel-drive systems featured manual locking hubs and a manual-shift transfer case. In order to get into and out of 4WD, you had to get out of the cab, lock (or unlock) the hubs on the front wheels, and then shift into (or out) of 4WD. Nowadays, many four-wheel-drive sport utilities and pickups come from the tic- tory with automatic locking hubs and electric-shift transfer cases.You never leave the comfort of the cab to engage 4WD.
Many outdoorsmen don’t like the new systems, but they’re here to stay. Some models still ofltr manual-shift transfer cases, though you may have to special-order the vehicle to get them.
As for those special packages, carefully evaluate each one, especially If you plan to tow a trailer or boat. In some cases, you may have to order more than one optional package to get all the required equipment. For example, to get underbody skid plates and heavy-duty shocks, you may be required to order an offroad package and a handling package.Those who tow may need to order a handling package for the shocks and sway bars, a cooling package for heavy-duty radiation and engine and transmission oil, and a trailer-towing package for the wiring harness and the hitch.
Some factory towing packages don’t include the hitch; it may be a dealer option. In this case, you can take the truck to a hitch dealer or have the dealer install it. (Many opt for the latter because the cost of the hitch installation can be rolled into the monthly payment.)
Selecting certain options may preclude you from others. For instance, some trailer-towing packages specify automatic transmissions only. And particular engine and rear-axle combinations may not be available because of federal regulations or market availability.
You also need to consider whether the accessories on your current truck—slide-in camper, cap, roof rack, winch, and the like—will fit the new truck. Case in point: New, more aerodynamic trucks use internal rather than external drip rails. If the roof rack on your old truck was designed to fit an external drip nil and you buy a new truck with internal drip rails, you’ll need to buy a new rack as well.
The first step is to determine the type of 4×4 you require. Given the size of the market (more than 50 models), this may seem a Herculean task, but the field breaks down in a hurry into four basic types: full-size and compact sport utilities, and full-size and compact pickup trucks. By and large, full-size vehicles from the same manufacturer share mechanical underpinnings and designs.The same holds true for the compact segment. And broadly speaking, sport utilities will cost more than a comparably equipped pickup.
What type would work best for you? That depends on the kinds of hunting and fishing you do, whether you need the vehicle for work, and if you need to haul your family around as well. thevitabl you’ll have to compromise. Though most sportsmen would like a vehicle dedicated exclusively to hunting and fishing, the majority need their vehicle to do double duty.
Think this through; sometimes the best choice isn’t obvious. For example, a Virginia angler I know was looking at compact sport utilities, but then decided on a compact pickup with a cap. Since he didn’t have any children and generally fished with one partner, he didn’t need to pay for the extra seats of a sport utility.
A full-size sport utility was the only alternative for a Texas sports-man I know, however, because, as he put it, “I’m a gear hog, and during the fall when I’m after birds, deer, and bass I practically live out of my truck. I need a lot of storage space for me and my partner, and since I drive anywhere from 4 to 6 hours to hunt, I also wanted a cab with some room to stretch out. And when I’m not in the field, the rear seat stays up so I can haul around my family.”
A Montana bird hunter recommends a compact sport utility. “There’s plenty of room for my pointer, my partners, and all our gear,” he says. “In addition, I prefer the fuel economy of the V6 engine to that of a big VS.”
Finally, there’s the big-game hunter from New Mexico who prefers full-size pickups. “With a big VS engine, I can tow a big trailer, and with a cap in place I can store enough gear for a week in deer camp. When I’m not hunting, the truck holds all my tools and work supplies.”
To each his own. Just remember, what works for a friend may or may not work for you. And since a new 4×4 will set you back anywhere from $20,000 to well over $40,000, don’t be in too big a hurry to make up your mind.
On my last hunting trip in the South, I stopped at one of those roadside eateries that cater to folks like me who can’t resist hand-lettered “BBQ” signs. Once inside the screen door,
I stared a long time at the menu, which was nothing more than a painted board nailed above the counter. Finally, the counterman took pity on me.
“It’s simple,” he said. “Beef.”
I nodded.
“Course, you can take that chopped, sliced, or shredded, with or without sauce, and you got beans and relish on the side. And, we got
two sizes—large and extra large.”
As I recall, I went whole hog and ordered a huge sandwich with
all the trimmings.
Buying a new 4×4 can be similarly gut-wrenching. You start simple, but suddenly you’re looking at a vehicle with all the trimmings. The only problem is that a new 4×4 is considerably more expensive than a barbecue sandwich. Careful preparation, however, can keep the heartburn to a minimum.